In our previous blog post, we explained why mulching is so important. Now we show you what you can do.
What we do NOT propose:
- use of artificial materials: such as various geotextiles, foils. Although they are easy to apply, they actually have several disadvantages. For example, it is expensive, the plastic also breaks down once and becomes a microplastic, and it does not allow perennials to spread, it inhibits drainage, which can lead to plants being waterlogged in clay soils.
- gravel: in certain circumstances, such as a dry garden or rock garden, when it is the perfect choice. In such cases, it is a good idea to choose plants that will thrive in their native habitat in dry, rocky places. In all other cases, the plants can become overgrown under the gravel that heats up in the summer heat.
❗️ From a plant and soil point of view, the worst choice is the recently fashionable combination of geotextile + gravel.
So what should we cover it with?
- Various mulch materials:
- in the front garden, in very focal areas, pine bark is nice and useful, but it is expensive in large quantities
- any plant residues that are already generated in the garden - previously treated as waste - such as branches, straw, leaves, grass clippings, kitchen waste. The more mixed the better.
- Dense planting is also a form of cover, cover and shade each other and the ground.
- Sowing cover crops
We are now in the 10M Mulch seed mix was chosen because:
- A mixture of 10 plant species: 26 % pannonic vetch, 20 % spring vetch, 16 % green rye, 12 % sand oats, 8 % field radish, 8 % purple clover, 1 % facelia, 4 % Alexandrian testicle, 4 % flax, 1 % sweet clover
- Butterfly plants dominate the mix, capable of 0,5-1,5 kg/100 m2also bind the active substance nitrogen from the air.
- Different species have roots of different sizes and shapes they are densely woven into the soil to improve its structure and have excellent weed suppression properties.
- The mycorrhiza 🍄 concentrate in the mix both supports seed growth and forms a mycorrhiza "bed"for the following year's crops. By using it, you can create a more humus-rich, vital and healthy soil and protect it from drying out.
How to use it?
Spring sowing with mulch
- after the soil temperature has reached about 12 oC, March-April.
- 1 kg mixture 100-200 m2 area is sufficient. Sowing depth: 2-4 cm, dose: 10-20 g/m2 depending on the sowing method. Water thoroughly after sowing. What can we expect? 5-6 species will emerge and without mowing will look like this by mid-summer:
You can plant it in a row or over a whole area, let it grow or mow it down.
Late summer-autumn sowing with mulch
- Sown after the crop has been drained, it will cover and protect our soil all winter.
in November after sowing in October
same in April next year
up close it looks like this
grapes in autumn sowing
The following year, we mow it before sowing/planting. We also use the mowing residue as mulch, and the root and stem debris left in the soil is either mulched into the soil or simply sown/planted in whatever we want. And if you were worried about how to dig a hole in the dense root system? Easy!
Although it does look "strange", at least it's not what our eyes are used to, is it? But it is the best thing for our soil and for next year's crop. In fact, as lazy gardeners, we've saved ourselves the digging, possibly the rototilling and raking, but not the mowing 😕
💚 10M seed mix available in the following sizes: 1 kg, 5 kg, 25 kg
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